You might not see too many petite Parisiennes at La Tour de Montlhéry-Chez Denise (simply known as Chez Denise to most); this is a bistro where the plates are huge. The pommes frites basically arrive on a platter. After all, this joint is where the meat market workers would come for a real meal after a long day. While the market has now moved, La Tour de Montlhéry-Chez Denise lives on. And thank goodness for that.

This is real old school Paris, right down to the red-and-white checked tablecloths and wood-fronted exterior. Menus are scribbled on blackboards that move from table to table as eager diners – drunk on the scents of sizzling steaks and grilling andouillette – place their orders with the straight-laced, crisply black-and-white bedecked servers. It may not always be service with a smile, but you might get a wink, if you’re lucky.

After a few glasses of free-flowing red wine, you won’t want to leave. But don’t worry – you won’t need to because La Tour de Montlhéry-Chez Denise stays open until 5am. It’s a popular apres-clubbing spot for those keen to refuel with some classic dishes, from grilled marrow bones to offal (don’t be afraid – it’s good). But with great food, wine, and ambience, for many this itself is Parisian partying at its best.