With a head chef in James Bennington who cut his kitchen teeth with Bruce Poole at Chez Bruce, which along with The Square is also owned by restaurateur Nigel Platts-Martin, this is very much a polished modern French affair. The restrained dining room, all neutral tones, is filled with Chiswick’s most affluent and the likes of Tom Pemberton who venture this far West for the critically praised cooking in dishes such as suckling pig ravioli and roast sea bass with olive oil mash. It’s served by a front of house team with silky smooth skills and topped off with a wine list, assembled by award-winning sommelier Matthieu Longuere, that’s one of the best in London, with a good selection by the glass and lots of half bottles and – should you require it – all the guidance you’ll ever need for menu matching.