A legend in its own teatime, the Champs Elysées Ladurée is, for our money, the one to come to, since you can combine it with a gawp at the gilded interior of the Guerlain flagship spa over the road. A fabulous Second Empire stage set, it is the biggest and most splendid of three Ladurée teahouses in Paris. The original opened in 1862 on 16 rue Royale (the other two are cunning fabrications), and there’s a third in St-Germain-des-Prés. The one thing they all have in common is the long counter, lit by neoclassical statuettes holding lampshades, where the famous macaroons, those nibbled by fashion editors and celebs, are laid out daily to tempt all comers. Upstairs is a baby-blue room fit for a princess (plus entourage), complete with grandfather clock, candelabra and gilded mirrors. A dimly lit, chinoiserie-themed central room, a small ‘library’ and two more dining rooms are connected by way of a long, creaky, wooden-floored corridor, leading finally to plush bathrooms. What to eat? Cake, cake and cake. Take some macaroons home with you.