Self-taught Basque chef Iñaki Aizpitarte gives a good name to both culinary deconstruction and strange pairings, with his steak tartare, tuna with chorizo, and chocolate custard with Espelette pepper. His modish food, the good-value wine list and Chateabriand’s location in prime bobo territory have propelled the restaurant’s popularity into the stratosphere, with queues at lunchtime and desperation at dinner (those in the know turn up around half nine to wait for a second sitting). The interior has been kept simple and old-fashioned, with bare walls and blackboards listing daily specials. Aizpitarte’s menu is short and changes often, according to what’s fresh and good. It’s almost as hard to get a prime-time spot here as it is at L’Astrance or Guy Savoy – and this is way cooler.