Le Comptoir du Relais
Hotly promoted by gourmet Parisians and, notably, by chef-patron’s Yves Camdeborde’s peers within the restaurant industry, Le Comptoir, a bustling St Germain bistro in all but its gastronomic feats, can be a tricky one in terms of securing a table for dinner, even if you mount an all-out telephone assault weeks in advance. To make life easier, turn up for elevenses of delicious, deboned pig’s trotters, or a tea-time treat of perfect pate en croute; alternatively, stay at the hotel that houses Camdeborde’s dining room, and you’ll be in with much more of a shout. The big attraction is the 50 Euro five-course prix fixe menu, ideally taken at one of the pavement tables, accompanied by a bottle of rose. Everything from the charcuterie (ample) to the cheeseboard (delectable), via roasted saddle of lamb with vegetable-filled Basque ravioli and herby jus (incredible), comes together as a very pleasurable picture of where Paris eating is at right now. So keep walking past and trying your luck.