Remove the tables from this labyrinthine Chinese restaurant in Madrid and it could easily be a nightclub. Le Dragon is spread over two floors and everything is fashionably black, except for huge red dragons painted on the ceiling and red and blue light-boxes scattered among the tables. Staff at Le Dragon are highly efficient and courteous, but seem a tiny bit hassled by the huge number of diners demanding their attention – something of a contrast from the feng shui principles employed in the decoration.

The menu is crammed with traditional Chinese favourites, prepared in a lighter way to avoid leaving you too full. Food can come at slightly irregular intervals but the flavours more than make up for this. This is indeed a beautiful place worthy of the attention of Salamanca’s beautiful people – a little slice of intimate New York transported to a quiet corner of Madrid.