Where, oh where to find refreshment when you’ve just staggered out of the Louvre? The correct answer is Le Fumoir, famous for its Sunday brunch, but just as much of a pleasure midweek for elevenses, a pot of premium tea or the apéritif. The casually chic crowd encompasses every generation, from children to matrons in Chanel flats, and there’s ample room in a series of rooms and on the terrace (indoors is nicer, though). The main bar has a slightly scuffed colonial appeal, with unvarnished wooden floors and ceiling fans, whirring in harmony with jazz and cocktails being shaken; there’s more of a restaurant feel in the rear rooms, where you can order from a sophisticated brasserie menu. This is also among our favourite places to come alone with a notebook, novel or the laptop.