Unfortunately for Le Select,  the owners chose a dud pocket of town, not usually associated with dining out in Toronto, that feels a touch soulless, but still the crowds come. And it’s not too surprising, because all the French favourites are here: a crusty, oozing French onion soup, steak frites, cassoulet or confit du canard and a decadent chocolate mousse. Naturally, there is a resplendent French wine list to match.

With lighting kept low and a chanteuse seeping out of the speakers, they’ve pitched it just right. Iconic French film posters set the scene, and extravagant displays of fresh flowers are a typically Parisian touch. 

The terrace at the front, with its striped awning, umbrellas and bountiful flower boxes, is a beautiful, balmy spot to sip a bière by candlelight.