The main attraction for the smart Istanbul set who frequent Leb-i-Derya is themselves. By rights, though, it should be the views, which pan out over Europe’s biggest metropolis, and are almost good enough to fall into when the summer terrace opens up in summer. On the top floor of a tall, early 20th-century building just off Istiklal Caddesi, Leb-i-Derya was renovated in light, woody contemporary tones after a destructive fire some years ago – a scary thought this high up. The cocktails served by the lovely staff are innovative and include basil margarita, hazelnut vodka and the rather terrifying-sounding gin strike. They all pack a punch and strangely seem to get better as the evening wears on, peaking in the very small hours.