Attached by marriage to the famed Bistrot Paul Bert next-door (owner Gwenaëlle Cadoret is married to Bernard Auboyneau of BPB), this seafood brasserie does what it does very well – and that is seafood. Oysters from Brittany and Normandy (Cadoret is the daughter of a Breton huitrier) are served by the dozen, nine or six, priced according to size, and accompanied by sourdough bread and two kinds of fine butter. The seafood platter for two comes on ice, swathed in seaweed and all of it fresh, oceanic and expertly conveyed from sea to plate: clams, winkles, shrimps, bigger, pinker shrimps, spider crab and more oysters. Just add Muscadet. Puddings are amazing, especially the fondant au chocolat, which comes with crème anglaise and goes in a trice. The interior is chipper and nautical, with lots of wood, blues and yellows.