Hoxtonites like to think they’re bohemian, so it is fitting that this intimate bunker, a homage to the original Bohemia, has been added to the array of bars in London’s Hoxton. Invisibly tucked between a kebab shop and a newsagent, it was opened in 2007 by Czech ‘molecular mixologist’ Paul Tvaroh who has achieved a seamlessly understated, communist theme – from the newspapered walls to the miserably greige 1960s furniture to the menus fashioned from classic Czech novels. The egalitarian commie vibe stops short of the door policy: no suits, no groups over 10, no standing, and no one without an appointment. You see, the cocktails are made with such complex craftsmanship that they’d be wasted on boozers and brawlers. Made with Tvaroh’s own range of infused vodka (and quite possibly a chemistry set), the inexpensive inventions include ‘Tea for Two’ (Earl Grey iced tea with Becherovka, lemon vodka, and honey and peach liqueurs) served in a 1960s’ patterned teapot, and Lab Test, six shots of those infusions, served in a test tube rack. Also popular are the hard-to-find Czech lagers and traditional Czech canapes; less so is the waiting staff, variously thought to have a sardonic sense of humour or none at all. Perhaps it’s for keeping the crowds at bay.