It’s one of the marvellously welcoming places to drink in Sydney, with tables and chairs crowded together downstairs, a minuscule upstairs bit with banquettes and tables, and the sound of vinyl records playing over the bustle of the open kitchen, which pumps out tasty plates like bruschetta and slow-cooked octopus. The owners are religious about their vino and the list is comprehensive, with at least 300 wines from all corners of the world on offer. The sommeliers can help make sense of it all, whether you want to quaff a Grenache Blend from Southern Rhone or share a South Australian field blend served in a classic glass pint bottle for $25. Some of the tables might be clustered a little too close together for comfort, but what’s a bit of elbow knocking when you’re halfway through a cracking Muscadet?