If you had been able to play with your food the way chef-owner Josiah Citrin does his, your parents would have encouraged you to do so all through dinner, every night. Citrin is an affable and capable captain, marrying French flair with Californian approachability, and his obsession with fresh market produce and proteins pays off nightly. Having grown up along these very shores and studied in Paris, he opened this sensational spot in 1999 with his wife, Diane, and earned international acclaim for his bold, ever-changing cuisine. We’ve swooned over everything from Maine lobster salad with heirloom tomatoes to divine duck breast in cherry sauce with glazed radish and wilted spinach, to the much-adored roasted Jidori chicken with chanterelle mushrooms and broccoli rabe. Citrin is an artist with herbs, and a scientist with flavor combos. Basically, he cooks with confidence, and why shouldn’t he? He’s a local boy done good.