Heavily-themed, Melnitsa is like stepping into Ukraine without the need for a passport. Meaning ‘windmill’ – there’s even a huge one outside, just to hammer it home – making the restaurant predictably easy to find. Flanked by welcoming staff, the space is high-concept stuff indeed; old boots, jars of pickled vegetables, sunflowers, photographs and more fill every conceivable nook and cranny. The food is peasant fare at its heartiest; indulge in dishes such as stewed rabbit, lamb ragout and veal liver in sour cream. If you can stomach a themed restaurant, then this is worth checking out. If nothing else, you’ll roll out.