As listed also in Eat, The Mugham Club is in an unusual two storey cara-vansera – most in this part of the world are strictly one storey affairs – which dates, in part at least, from as far back as the 6th century and is thought to be where Marco Polo stayed when he visited Baku en route to China in the late 1200s. The friendly stall-holders upstairs are your best bet for a quick guided tour (and don’t feel obliged to buy either). At one point this caravan-sera was linked by tunnels to the small one being excavated up the street and the well-known Caravansera restaurant (see Eat) on the other side of Maiden Tower. This linkage provided much needed escape routes in times of siege. Look out for the larger corner suites of rooms, which were reserved for dig-nitaries including, most likely, Marco Polo, and the steps up to the upper storey, which have been re-cut to behalf their original height. Unconquer-ably high steps being another weapon of defense in the besieged forces’ arsenal. As well as the cultural heritage of the building, the mugham concerts and dance displays that take place nightly during dinner are an excellent way to pop your mugham cherry.