For a truly rustic dining experience in Moscow, go to Na Melnitse, which translates as ‘At the Mill’ – which it quite literally is. The decor creates the illusion of deeply rustic Russian countryside: a stream turning the mill, live guinea fowl, peasant lanterns, a pastoral mural and even flour bag coat check tags.
rnHead chef Valery Dubrovin’s classic Russian menu delivers meat cooked on an open grill in the ‘mill’s kitchen’ and truly exceptional kidney and liver dishes. The caviar is very reasonably priced, but the wine list seemed unreasonably expensive, so take the truly Russian option of washing it all down with flavoured vodka eau de vies.
rnThis, somewhat surprising, authentic experience gives one the feeling of being totally transported to a Tolstoian idyll. It comes as a shock when you leave and re-enter the hubbub of Moscow’s boulevard.
rnAt the weekends live folk music draws in a nostalgic crowd who tend to fill the restaurant, so book ahead.