This food-lover’s haven opened several years ago to rapturous reviews. Owner José Matos Cristovão, one-time editor of Epicuro magazine, had friends in plenty of high places and ensured their bottoms were planted firmly on his dining-room seats. Since his death two years ago, the restaurant has passed over to his less vivacious brother and the atmosphere is consequently more reserved.

However, the standard of cooking is still high and you’d be hard-pushed to find a restaurant where the food is more lovingly revered. The menu is varied and traditional dishes are prepared with top-of-the-range ingredients – there’s even a choice of different olive oils to accompany meals.

The wine list is equally epic and could challenge even the most knowledgeable of wine lovers. In fact the only thing missing from this pleasant restaurant is fun and laughter. Diners tend to be middle-aged types, who probably read about the place in a Sunday Times supplement. If Playboy were a cook book, this would be it.