Not a single restaurant but a narrow street that runs off the covered fish market, just around the corner from Çicek Pasaji – the latter is a lovely 19th-century passageway full of attractive-looking restaurants (in addition to pesky touts trying to lure passing tourists in).Here, the 20 or so more down-to-earth eateries on Nevizade Sokak pull in tourists, too, but the generous helping of locals who fill the tables on both sides of the street helps to dilute the touts. When the place gets going there’s a great energy, full of noise and action: waiters scurry back and forth with huge trays of meze while fasil musicians ply their trade. The restaurants are invariably good, with slight variations between them being a bias towards dishes from one region or another, or a particular reputation for good live music. Take your time strolling by and pick one that takes your fancy. A good place to head to on your first night in the city, just to make sure you get into the swing of things quickly.