The Westin’s Oeno takes its wine seriously and, unusually, doesn’t overcharge for it. The novel-length list has been culled from all over the world, with everything from New World sparklers to heavy French reds, and the knowledgeable sommeliers are thrilled to be asked their opinion. The lofty room has a mezzanine level, which features some particularly space-age sofas, but a bar stool on the ground floor is preferable, as most nights there is a good jazz trio working the grand piano. At weekends, the young crowd can be slightly noisier than this classy cream-and-white room might expect – in fact, it’s not unknown for an over-watered oenophile to try and scale the five-metre high wine wall. Cheese-freaks are well catered for with a wonderful walk-in fromagerie, housing an encyclopaedic, ever-changing collection to accompany the grape-based drinks.