Who wants molecular gastronomy for dinner every night? Not culinary wizard Claudio ‘Colborne Lane’ Aprile, who went and opened this more affordable, less showy second venture.

Among all the places to eat in Toronto Origin is deemed a little precocious but the brick, black and hot pink walls with wire-spun light fixtures are actually just zany, and the punters tend to migrate to the outside terrace at the first opportunity. The idea here is to share small plates, which, given their inventiveness and beauty, is optically satisfying if not always physically so (choose your favourites, then come back to gorge alone). Its seasonal menu is simple yet indulgent, with the occasional intervention of liquid nitrogen (shrimp ceviche has its accompanying corn freeze dried, as are the dessert berries). 

There’s a mozzarella bar (bufala, burrata or fior di latte with an array of sweet and savoury accomplices) and chilled and hot plates like Bangkok beef salad or Chinois duck wrap, which are always presented with panache.