Hg2 : The Hedonist

Oslo Court

Hidden from passing trade on the ground floor of a St John’s Wood mansion block, in what was once a drinking den for Norwegian airmen, with a menu that’s not changed since the ’70s and a colour scheme that would have made the late Barbara Cartland blush – Oslo Court is perhaps the most pleasingly bizarre dining experience in London. Not that its clientele of genteel Jewish pensioners see anything untoward in the salmon walls, the crisp peachy-pink napery and a menu that comprises an encyclopaedic list of dishes that were last in fashion before Elvis started to bloat. Melba toast, an abundance of brandy and cream sauces, and lots of flambéing and friendly fawning silver service is what you get and what Square Meal’s Ben McCormack loves. The camp Egyptian waiter who comes along with the dessert trolley at the end is a memorable closing act.

Prince Albert Road,
St John's Wood,
+44 20 7722 8795
Opening Times
12.30-2.30pm, 7-11pm. Closed Sundays and August.
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