Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton have dug in their heels here on Melrose, and locals have embraced the efforts of these celebrity chefs with open arms. Located next to its equally popular, more casual sister spot, Pizzeria Mozza, the Osteria’s fare and extensive Italian wine program have struck a deep chord here. Therefore the reservations take a while to score. (You know what to do. Book early, early, early.) Imposing racks of vino are evidence of the team’s obsessive oenophile tendencies. Meanwhile, the grand marble ‘mozzarella bar’ is Silverton’s territory, where the finest varieties of the cheese (for which the spot was named) are manipulated in various clever ways. Bulletpoints aside, this is a flat-out fabulous experience, and much deserving of the accolades it has received. Pastas are perfection, like the gnocchi with wild boar ragù and the decadent ricotta-stuffed ravioli topped with a fried quail egg and drizzled in sage-scented butter. Beyond that, the porcini-rubbed rib eye steak pan-roasted sea trout, and grilled quail wrapped in pancetta are all worth the hefty bill that awaits.