Padaria São Roque
Pastelaria-Padaria São Roque, this ‘cathedral of bread’ (as proclaimed by azulejos behind the counter) is essentially one of Lisbon’s excellent bakeries, although ample seating is provided for customers who prefer to stay longer. Cakes are sticky and predictably stodgy. But the decoration alone makes this worth a visit.
Marble pillars reach into a magnificent dome ceiling. Tiles intricately painted with scenes from nature flood the room with colour. Staff understand little English and territorial locals are somewhat put out by large groups of tourists. This is a real slice of local life.