Easily the best and most traditional of Lisbon’s classic tearooms, Versailles is fortunate enough to escape the obligatory troupes of tourists that usually follow suit. This is largely a consequence of its uptown location. Instead, the carved wooden tables are filled with well-to-do pensioners who chatter in hushed tones over a game of cards.

The interior is spectacular: engraved mirrors, stained glass and carved wooden panels. Crystal chandeliers dazzle above the mouth-watering cake cabinet, which seems to stretch into infinity. The daily specials, served with a generous helping of cream, usually disappear quickly. Friendly staff bring a sense of warmth and closeness to this otherwise grand space. Don’t leave Lisbon without a visit.