If you’re looking for the underworld in middle-class Milanese clubs, give up. But Pergola and the other centri sociali (Leoncavallo, +39 2 670 5185 and La Steca) are as close as you might get. Originally traveller squats (and still semi-legal), they all offer raw hedonism (or squat parties) to all in the spirit of left-wing solidarity.
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rnPergola Move specializes in dance-hall reggae and drum’n’bass, and all that goes with that – Red Stripe beer, cakes à la codename ‘Maria Giovanna’ and Milan’s many trustafarians. Don’t expect anything salubrious – by day it’s a dogs-on-strings haunt for political activists, with a hostel and vegan restaurant, and by night, the dreads congregate in what is at best like a basic student union with black and rasta-coloured walls.
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rnPrices are accordingly cheap, and the small entrance price is a ‘contribution’ not a ticket. But with a custom-built 10,000-watt sound system to big up the bass line, this is one serious reggae joint.

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