Everyone has something to say about the dramatic Richard Meier buildings overlooking the Hudson River in the West Village – who’s bought in them, what construction is going on, when people will actually move in. One thing that’s indisputable is that internationally acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten has bestowed upon the first of the buildings a sleek, fine restaurant – the eighth of his New York City restaurants – offering the increasingly monied far-West Village an appropriately posh gathering place and giving critics of his far-flung culinary endeavors a chance to see him meditate on flavors, and take diners on a journey. Serenely set in white, beige, and tan, the space centers around a sophisticated bar area, offers 60 generous seats at banquettes and tables, and is attended by his coolest, most relaxed staff.