The story goes that the Pizza Pilgrims went go on a namesake spiritual journey to Italy before launching a pizza van and then an inaugural shop on Dean Street. Whether or not they really received blessings from Neapolitan pizzaiolos, though, is somewhat beside the point: who cares, when the pizza is this good? Now, in a humming second location on Kingly Street, the hard-working dough maestros pull rough and ready pizzas out of the super-heated oven with long paddles. Each one is dotted with char, elliptical rather than a perfect circle, tender and chewy: all signs of handmade artistry. You could opt for the classic Margherita, which is certainly good, but why bother when there’s pizza mounded with ‘nduja, another one topped with mushrooms and spritzed with truffle aroma, and – cue heavenly choirs – a carbonara pizza dripping in a mingled mess of melted cheese and golden yolk?