Is Jason Atherton the new Gordon Ramsay? We’d hope not, but his meteoric takeover of the London food scene (Atherton now has a stable of restaurants across Europe, the US and Asia) is reminiscent of that of his mentor. Pollen Street Social, opened in 2011, was Atherton’s London debut restaurant, and arguably his finest; it’s got the Michelin star to prove it.

Atherton is a great advocate of British produce – to him food miles matter. That’s why diners can find out where the quail in their pine-smoked quail starter came from (Norfolk) and that the suckling pig (served with roasted chicory, braised red cabbage, pickled dates and black tea) came from Cumbria. It’s a responsible attitude and one that enhances the already undeniably accomplished dishes.

Pollen Street Social aims to offer “deformalised fine dining” (that’s casual dining to the likes of us), which it does by offering Michelin-starred cuisine without the pomposity. The light space is populated with warm wooden accents and bulbous lights. The bar, incidentally, whips up some wonderful cocktails, including some masterful seasonal options, and there’s a comprehensive wine list, with a few options for sake, sherry, and beer as well.