Primeur, housed in a former garage from the 1920s, is fast becoming a local favourite in Stoke Newington. (That’s north-west London for those not yet familiar with the neighbourhoods in the British capital). Its popularity is largely due to the fact that it offers simple fine dining and an intimate, informal atmosphere. In fact, it’s pretty much nailed the formula. Where others try, Primeur succeeds with unassuming, undeniable flair.

Diners here sit at communal tables. There are chairs from the 1930s and reclaimed wooden floors that lend a sense of the rustic to the space. And the original rollback garage doors, meanwhile, ensure that plenty of natural light floods in, giving the well-plated dishes just that little extra je ne sais quoi. Never underestimate the power of good lighting, after all.

Not that the food here needs any help. It’s honest and un-fussy, with a tangible, tasty French influence. There are no paper menus – diners choose from a list of dishes, which are decided daily and displayed on a chalkboard. And the friendly staff will be more than happy to talk you through it. To complement the menu, Primeur has crafted a compelling wine list, which also changes frequently. Just remember, when choosing your meal, to leave room for the cheese and, if you can face it, a dessert. If you’re lucky enough to spy the chocolate mousse with red wine cherries on the board, order it – it’s rich, sweet and boozy. Perfect.