Rangoli is considered to belong to the best restaurants in Milan concerning all that is curry – telling praise since it bears the added scrutiny of being ethnic. ‘Rangoli’ is an Indian welcome sign: the restaurant is filled with rangoli colours and symbols like a typical Indian house, albeit with requisite Milanese refinement.

A warm and indeed inviting environment awaits, traditionally decorated with Hindu statues, stencilled walls and carved wooden archways. Bhangra beats, Bollywood love songs and sandalwood incense create a mellow ambience that’s best in the basement.

Earnest Indian waiters in ochre saris bring poppadoms and prosecco on arrival, and eastern promise of pan-Indian regional cuisine from Rangoli’s Indian chef.

But don’t expect any surprises – this is more like a beginners’ class in Indian food (blame the market forces, since its bestsellers are tikka masala and korma). Presentation is thoughtful and stylish and vegetarians are well catered for, as are those needing a side of chillis.