Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
They’ve given up pretending that Ramsay himself spends much time in the kitchen here anymore. Nowadays he’s everywhere – mostly getting his highlights done down at the salon or swearing on television. But whether he’s there or not, Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship looks like it’s in safe hands after the recent appointment of no-nonsense Northern Irish head chef Clare Smyth. The cooking’s about luxury ingredients and technical brilliance in dishes such as line-caught turbot fillet studded with Perigord truffle, boulangère potatoes, leek
ballotine and civet sauce. The interior, redone a couple of years ago, is not exactly riveting, the wine list is suitably grand and the service, under Jean-Claude Breton, is undoubtedly some of the best in London. As you’d expect, tables are hard to come by at short notice unless you’re in Ramsay’s good books – and it’s stonkingly expensive.