Dubai’s bonkers, partially submerged Atlantis, nicknamed ‘The Eighth Chunder of the World’ by one inventive tabloid in its opening week, is full of eateries, all of which are currently stuffed to the rafters thanks to the hotel’s sheer notoriety. Although some of them (the steak canteen Seafire, for example) will have to up their culinary and hospitality game if they want to maintain these levels of occupancy long-term. Ronda Locatelli has got it right from the start, with a solid spread of peasant favourites culled from Giorgio Locatelli’s London ‘Locanda’ flagship. As well as the pasta-and-rice classics, there’s a selection of thin and crispy pizzas prepared at the giant four-station furnace which dominates the dome-like space. It may be less ritzy than its European forbears, but in a hotel that looks like it was conceived for Posh and Becks, it’s solid, rustic charm is something to treasure.