Supper clubs are a dime a dozen in this town, but right now none have the Art Deco feel of the era that inspired them. Arched ceilings with bold, gold lines, vintage lights and a corridor of buxom Tamara de Lempicka nudes are stylish touches from a top design team.

Drinks are modern versions of classic cocktails; like mint juleps, sidecars and the Roosevelt Gold made with carnation milk and flecks of gold. The menu is styled on the French-inspired chow of the first Academy Awards dinner, and the musical accompaniment is jazz.

Then at 10.30pm comes dramatic reinvention, when dinner tables on hydraulics lower themselves in anticipation of bottle service, music get ratcheted up in volume and the genre jumps to pop, rock and house. Friday nights are particularly popular with the gay community.