There are arguments in favour of most members of the six-strong, Hong Kong-owned, Royal China group, but in terms of chefs, (Henry Harris, Heston Blumenthal, Ichiro Kubota) and critics, (Fay Maschler, Zoe Williams) affections it comes down to a toss up between the Royal China Club in Baker Street, and the original Royal China in Queensway. The Cantonese cooking at both is excellent, if conservative. While the former is more modern, less shiny and in some ways slicker, Royal China at the Hyde Park end of Queensway, the most lauded Chinese in Bayswater, wins out for the sheer sheen of its cavernous, glitzy, 80s black and gold interior that feels like a Macau casino from an old Bond film circa Roger Moore. It’s a room that somehow muffles the noise even when it’s packed full of enthusiastic dim sum diners as it is most lunchtimes and especially on a Sunday.