The 100% Arabica beans are roasted over wood on site and make their way into the retro 1940s interior to be served up in all their gloriously smooth incarnations from espresso to cappuccino by the skilled and solemn baristi. The classic tipple here is the gran caffè lungo, which comes with a layer of burnished creamy foam on its slick mahogany base. This is not a place to linger – coffee etiquette demands a maximum of 5 minutes at the bar – but if you do pull up a pew on the outside tables be warned that there is, as ever, a steep mark up in prices for the pleasure.