Scott Conant dazzled us for years with his soulful and dramatic, yet metered fare at Tudor City’s L’Impero. Now he has ventured down to feed the hungry eating in New York’s Meatpacking District and rolled up his sleeves a little, making his cooking all the more enjoyable. Its name, Scarpetta, is appropriate, as it translates to ‘little shoe,’ after the bread used to soak up a plate’s juices. You won’t likely linger over Conant’s offerings – some of his greatest hits from L’Impero alongside decadent new recipes – and there certainly won’t be much left when you’re through. Crispy fritto misto or scallop tartare start things off right, while pastas knock-a the socks off-a (including the perfect spaghetti marinara), and entrees inspire silence across the table (particularly the fennel-and concentrated tomato-decked black cod and the Sicilian spiced duck breast). A 3,000-bottle wine cellar spans the finest offerings of Europe, and for dessert we suggest the olive oil cake with Marscapone cream.