Strictly speaking, dating is illegal in Dubai. Unless you are in possession of particularly tech-savvy cells, you’ll even find that trying to search for your soulmate online will send your laptop into lockdown. So the couples in this secluded corner of Madinat Jumeriah are all, of course, just good friends. Or related. Regardless, if you want to moon over your, ahem, brother, then this is a mighty fine place to do it; snuggled in the elegant main dining room – split into nooks by lattice-work screens – you will almost certainly secure a second non-date. The food is trad Italian, gussied up with glam ingredients – think osso bucco lasagna – and the European wine list is long. In summer, if you bag a sought-after balcony table overlooking the waterway, you’ll want to add mosquito to spray to the pheromone melee but in the winter helpful staff hand out pashminas to ward off the breeze.