As ramen restaurants continue to proliferate in London, it’s important to distinguish between the decent bowls and the ones that border on the transcendent. Unquestionably a member of the latter category is Shoryu’s tonkotsu ramen – a style hailing from Hakata, tonkotsu’s signature is its rich, milky-looking broth, a result of boiling pork bones for 10 hours to form a supremely meaty stock. But no matter the porkiness at play, a ramen is only as good as all of its parts. Luckily, the noodles here are springy, the slices of meat rimmed with melting fat, and an orange-yolk egg cooked just on the other side of runny.
You could plonk down and gobble a bowl, but there’s also reason to linger. Pillowy hirata-style buns make a worthy starter for the exceptionally hungry, and for visitors during the summer months, a selection of chilled ramen dishes do well to combat the heat (as do the restaurant’s fruity sake cocktails). Though Shoryu’s original location is on Regent Street, the restaurant operates branches in Soho, on Carnaby Street, and near Liverpool Street, meaning ramen (hot and cold) is never far away for Zone 1 explorers.