The Slow Club was slow before slow food became cool for restaurants in San Francisco, a true Californian eatery. It is an institution in what has been, until very lately, a no-man’s-land neighborhood. Today it serves excellent California-style cuisine to a loyal crowd of hip Media Gulch locals. The space is small and dark with low ceilings and minimal, industrial accoutrements-concrete floors, steel railings, porthole windows, plain wooden tables and chairs, open kitchen, tiny rectangle of a bar in back. The star is the flawless food. The pastas are fresh, lively and succulent, the meat is done to perfection. With aioli and balsamic onions, the burger here is the best in town. With its comfort cooking and minimalist visual aesthetic, Slow Club is a pastoral oasis in the center of urbanity. Slow Club is such a hot dinner destination that some folks don’t even know it has one the best brunches in town. Rub elbows with the upscale Mission crowd getting fortified to splurge on antiques on Valencia Street. The pineapple-orange agua fresca is even better with a splash of tequila.