Enter Smoking Goat and you’ll find yourself wrapped in a fug of fragrant smoke and warmth, a natural by-product of the restaurant’s barbeque-style Thai cooking (not to mention its close quarters). If you manage to snag a two-top or a couple of stools at the warmly lit bar, consider yourself lucky; if you get snagged in the queue, consider the wait worth it.
Everything we tried was the kind of delicious that provokes strings of happy profanity: like slow-roasted duck legs whose dark skin melted into a sticky glaze, served alongside a jaew dipping sauce lanced through with lime, or the deeply savoury, fish-sauce-pungent fried chicken wings. Best of all were the lamb ribs, whose crisp skin veiled tender morsels of meat and generous ribbons of earthy fat that separated from the bone without complaint. When eaten with the sticky rice, dipping sauce, and piquant som tam salad that came along with, the experience was almost unseemly. Wash it all down with biscuity pandan-infused water (or beer, an ideal marriage), and resign yourself to the fact that your hands and face – for starters – will emerge smeared with all manner of drippings.