An enduring hub for Cihangir’s hip social scene, Smyrna is a former antiques shop-turned-buzzing neighbourhood bar. The retro tone is set at the entrance with an eclectic collection of bric-à-brac, dolls, typewriters, old bottles and so on. The rest of the décor is similarly mixed-up, with lots of comfortable old sofas and armchairs. The clientele would like to be eclectic, too, but they’re all arty types (and so constitute a social monoculture, even if it’s a creative one). The food and drink, served all day and into the night, is good, though priced more in line with central London than local Istanbul (but you’re paying for the cool). There’s even a super comfortable tiny platform area accessible by a steep set of ladder-steps where you can have a lounge or a lie-down, and the relaxed staff probably won’t mind if you doze off (as long as you keep ordering food and drink in your sleep).