With a grand piano next to the screen to accompany old silent films, the cineteca at Spazio Oberdan is like one of those classic movie theatres in milan, albeit in a sympathetic modern style (cherrywood slatting and charcoal leather seating). And despite Italy’s nationwide passion for dubbing, all films screened here are in their original language with subtitles. The cineteca organizes its films into seasons – for example, on Charlie Chaplin and Roman Polanski. There’s often a retrospective slant, but this independent, publicly funded filmhouse is just as likely to present avant-garde video art. There’s also a modern art space (La Galleria) and a specialist cinema book shop (La Libreria), and down the road, the Museo del Cinema (Palazzo Dugnani, Via Manin 2B).