It used to be all prim and proper, but the young sous-chef, Victor Barry, took over one of the old school restaurants in Toronto and turned it on its head. It now has a relaxed and open atmosphere, with big hanging photographs, sky-blue walls, wooden floors and shelves of pickling jars.
The menu is honest and indulgent, with many stellar dishes including a divinely-creamy gnocchi with parmigiano reggiano and black truffle shavings. Elegant starters like soft-shell crab with lime dressing are the precursor to three inventive choices from both land and sea. Or, team up with a friend and order comfort food for two, such as Dorset rack of lamb roasted with merguez sausage and served with lemon ricotta agnolotti and spicy savoy cabbage. The location is a little odd, but that’s a minor whinge.