Story tells a frightfully good tale. One of the most heralded London restaurant openings in recent memory, the restaurant is the pet project of young Chef Tom Sellers, who pairs his creative plates with an irresistible narrative arc.

Plonked down by Tower Bridge in a little corner of Bermondsey, the warm space occupies a bit of turf that once held a Victorian toilet block. Now, it’s all sun and Nordic wood, a dining room that feels a little vaster for the lack of music or other ambient sounds. The glassed-in kitchen is poised off to the side, and even during the dinner rush the cooks within all seem collected, many of them leaving the kitchen to deliver plates straight to the anticipatory diners.

Oh, and what plates they are! A candle that seems purely decorative until it melts into a pool of molten beef drippings (bread and relish provided on the side). A selection of amuse-bouches that include seaweed butter-stuffed nasturtium blossoms and squid ink ‘oreos’. Cubes of sugar-sweet beetroot, rounds of raspberries, circlets of sorrel and horseradish snow. A pigeon breast paired with burnt stalks of chard that convey pure smoke. The whimsical parade marches on unabated, and, like a nursery rhyme, leaves Story’s visitors as giddy and awestruck as children.