A Baku institution, Sultan’s motto is ‘come hungry, we will fill your belly’. Entering the broad, carpeted hallway, you are greeted by a bustling throng of waiters and led through to the main hall, ceiling draped in billowing red fabric and lit by beautiful glass pendantlamps and coloured spots. Dominated by a long, open-plan kitchen and grill, the friendly, informal restaurant is filled with a mouth-watering barbecue smell. In summer the back opens up into the garden for alfresco dining, sadly something of a rarity in Baku these days. The menu runs the gamut of Azeri cuisine and is good throughout, but it’s the kebabs that rule the day – especially the metre long Adana kebab, that serves 10 people for a very reasonable AZN70. Do specify downstairs when booking though, as harsh lighting upstairs destroys the convivial atmosphere.