The nostalgic stylings of the Irish Village pub which dominates Garhoud’s Century Village, with its faux tobacconist and strings of all-season party lights, looks so much like a plasterboard film set one can completely forget to look behind it. Those who make the journey around this gated leisure development’s circumference will be rewarded with a secret Costa coffee franchise (hardly The Beach, is it?), a so-so steakhouse and this magnificently pokey sushi hideout. A cute conveyor belt sequesters the chef at the back, but the best seats in the dollhouse are the cosy window-side sofas. It really is a novelty to be offered a drink with your meal when not dining in a hotel, so take advantage, order a few rounds of Asahi or Sapporo and get stuck in to the delightfully substantial fish food. Monday night’s all you can eat sushi deal is particularly gratifying.