The food at Taverna Angelica is very good; it’s one of the restaurants in Rome which can boast being healthy and flavoursome, with modern recipes of meat and fish that resist any pretensions. The Sunday lunch set menu is particularly appealing after a visit to see the Big Daddy himself round the corner. But they haven’t quite got it right in terms of styling – inside looks a bit like an Oriental restaurant, with wicker Vietnamese-style lampshades – but, God bless them, they’re really trying to pull the area out of its bland culinary quagmire, over 400 wines and a handsome selection of cheeses really make the grade. Despite the slightly cold atmosphere you may find yourself chowing down alongside a cassocked priest or two slugging back the vino rosso on a break from the Hail Marys.