The most designed of all design restaurants in Madrid, Teatriz is a converted theatre designed by Philippe Starck and, in true Starck style, the lavatories are as much of a design feat as the actual restaurant, with huge, marble Louis XIV basins, and stainless steel and mirror cubicles. The circular restaurant is dominated by a raised, gold-lit bar on the stage at one end, where moneyed Madrileños and in-the-know out-of-towners gather for pre- and post-dinner drinks.

The food at Teatriz is Mediterranean/Italian and surprisingly good value considering the Salamanca location and Starck credentials. Service is efficient if a little abrupt, but that’s all part of the exclusive appeal. English menus are available for those struggling with the language. Dress up in your best togs and treat yourself, and don’t forget to check out the loos.