Formerly the Grill at Brown’s (and before that 1837) this fine old Mayfair hotel’s restaurant has been rechristened again. With the new name came the involvement of Mark Hix, who installed head chef Lee Streeton and made over the menu to make it more British, more seasonal, more luxurious and no less meaty or traditional. The carving trolley is rolled out every lunch, its cargo varying from Beef Wellington on a Wednesday to roast beef on a Sunday. Elsewhere there are oysters, simply prepared fish dishes, on-the-bone cuts, and proper puddings. The room, restored under Rocco Forte’s ownership several years ago, is all wood-panelling and plush carpet, a style that suits the service. The à la carte breakfast, that includes helpings of kedgeree and kippers, is affordable, unlike the full English traditionally priced for a 5-star-hotel.