The neon sign outside belies The Cypress Room’s rustic feel as you step inside to face a zoo of taxidermy in Michael Schwartz’s latest addition to his rapidly expanding empire. A timely reminder that fine dining still has its place and starched table cloths and buttoned-up waiters aren’t just the reserve of period dramas.

Luckily the food’s so good you won’t be worrying about the boar glaring down at you as Schwartz’s consistent approach of  fresh and simple keeps him producing beautifully well executed American food. Save space at the end for it would be criminal not to try the sublime creations resulting from the ongoing collaboration with renowned pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith – so pretty they’re almost too good to eat.